Cronton Garden Centre
Cronton Road
Cronton
WA8 5QJ
email: mail@crontonnurseries.co.uk
November Tips
Leaves are falling rapidly, and wind and rain are on the increase. Yes, winter is definitely on its way. But, that doesn’t mean there are no jobs to be done in your garden in November – definitely not! You will have done a lot to prepare your garden for the winter back in October, but there are still tasks to tick off your to-do list this month. Tender plants will need protecting from frost, gales and freezing rains. Move plants into the greenhouse, or into a sheltered spot, but if you can't, it is worth wrapping plants or pots. Remember winter can be a tough time for birds in terms of water and food, so keep supplies well topped up.
November Garden Tips
In the Flower Garden
Unless you are leaving dead stems for structure in the garden, or as habitats for over-wintering wildlife, you can continue to cut down faded herbaceous perennials and add these to the compost heap. It is still a good time to lift and divide overgrown clumps of herbaceous perennials. Remove stakes and other supports as final late-flowering herbaceous plants die down for the winter.
Invest in bird baths and bird feeders this autumn. Birds are gardeners friends and will keep pest numbers down.
Lily bulbs can still be planted in pots this month. They can either be brought inside next spring to ‘force’ them into an early display or left outside to flower naturally in summer. Plant tulip bulbs this month. Some tulips persist year to year, some perform less well and are treated as bedding, and replaced every year. There's still time to plant daffodil bulbs and other spring flowering bulbs for a magnificent start to next year’s display. Plant up a terracotta pot of hyacinth bulbs for a simple but stunning display next spring.
Now is the last chance to plant out winter bedding. You could try wallflowers, forget-me-nots, Bellis, Primula, Viola (winter pansies) and other spring bedding plants, planting them into well-prepared ground, or pots of suitable compost. Penstemons are best dead-headed and left until the spring, when they can be cut back further. In mild areas they can carry on flowering well into the late autumn and early winter. The old faded stems will help to protect the crowns from cold. Mulching over the crowns in colder areas will also help.
Plant heathers, grasses and trailing ivy in pots for winter colour. Ornamental grasses and bamboos can be cut back and tidied up at this time of year.
Lift and store dahlias, cannas, gladiolus corms and tuberous bedding begonias to dry over the winter months. Remove the dead foliage before storing.
General maintenance
Do not feed plants this late in the season, as they are no longer growing the nutrients may be washed into rivers and streams by winter rain. Apply an autumn mulch to protect plants that are borderline hardy such as Agapanthus (African Lily), Kniphofia (Red Hot Poker), and Phygelius (Cape Fuchsia). The plants’ own leaves, e.g. Kniphofia can be tied up and used as protection for the crowns underneath. Clay soils can be more workable in autumn, as they are no longer baked hard, but not yet sodden and sticky with winter wet, mulching will help to improve and maintain soil structureMake sure that you have not forgotten any of your tender plants and bulbs - they need to be brought inside or into a heated greenhouse over the winter. Protect alpines from the wet, if you have not done so already.
Large tubs that are at risk of cracking in the frost should be covered with bubble wrap, hessian or fleece, to insulate them over the winter. Raise patio containers onto feet or bricks to avoid them sitting in the winter wet.
Tidy up leaves from around borders. They can be added to the compost heap, or placed in separate bins to make leaf mould. Leaf mould makes an excellent soil improver, and can also be used as a seed-sowing medium. Dig new flower beds as the weather allows. Don't work on them when it's very wet, as walking on sodden soil can cause compaction. In mild weather, weeds will still appear. Hoe regularly to keep them in check. Now can be a good time to dig up perennial weeds with long tap roots, such as dandelions and mallow, from newly cultivated areas. Weedkillers are only effective in mild areas, so if you missed the spring and early autumn application periods, you may still be able to spray in warm regions of the UK. Products containing diquat will not kill weed roots but remove foliage and clear weeds even in cool, dull, wet weather. They are non-selective, however, and other plants must be protected.
Pest and disease watch
Watch out for downy mildew and black spot on winter pansies. Check chrysanthemums regularly for signs of white rust. Look out for crown rot and brown rots (sclerotinia) on died down perennials, especially if you are on a clay or poorly-drained soil. Be aware that many diseases will overwinter in the soil, or on plant debris. Antirrhinum rust and Delphinium black blotch, as well as sclerotinia (stem rot), will lay dormant and re-infect plants when they come up the following year. It may be necessary to replant new specimens in another place if the problem is severe. Gather up fallen leaves from around the base of rose bushes which suffered from blackspot or rust this summer, to reduce the chance of infection next year. Digging the soil, especially bare patches or newly cultivated land, will expose pest larvae and eggs to birds and frosts, as well as clearing weeds and improving soil structure. Don’t leave soil uncovered for too long, however, as it runs the risk of erosion and washing away of valuable nutrients. Black polythene sheeting will protect it in the absence of planting or mulch.
Watch out for downy mildew and black spot on winter pansies. Check chrysanthemums regularly for signs of white rust. Look out for crown rot and brown rots (sclerotinia) on died down perennials, especially if you are on a clay or poorly-drained soil. Be aware that many diseases will overwinter in the soil, or on plant debris. Antirrhinum rust and Delphinium black blotch, as well as sclerotinia (stem rot), will lay dormant and re-infect plants when they come up the following year. It may be necessary to replant new specimens in another place if the problem is severe. Gather up fallen leaves from around the base of rose bushes which suffered from blackspot or rust this summer, to reduce the chance of infection next year. Digging the soil, especially bare patches or newly cultivated land, will expose pest larvae and eggs to birds and frosts, as well as clearing weeds and improving soil structure. Don’t leave soil uncovered for too long, however, as it runs the risk of erosion and washing away of valuable nutrients. Black polythene sheeting will protect it in the absence of planting or mulch.
Trees and shrubs
Before the birds eat them all, cut a few stems of holly with berries for making Christmas garlands. Stand them in a bucket of water in a sheltered spot where our feathered friends can't take them.
Bare-root deciduous hedging plants, trees and shrubs become available this month. They need to be planted promptly, before they dry out. They can be heeled into the soil for a short period if conditions are not suitable for planting. You can still order and plant containerised trees and shrubs, and large semi-mature specimens for planting later in the winter, when bare-root plants are no longer available.November is the perfect time to plant a magnolia tree for a beautiful spring display. It is also an ideal time to plant roses. Start to plant bare-root roses - they can be planted any time between now and March. Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases (rose sickness).
This is also a good time to transplant trees and shrubs growing in unsuitable positions. However, if they are more than a couple of years old, you are unlikely to be able to remove an intact enough rootball to ensure the plant’s survival in its new position, and you may be best advised to leave well alone.Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from wind and cold. A temporary netting windbreak is sufficient where there is no natural shelter. Straw, bracken, or something similar can be used to pack around deciduous plants and protect them from frost. A wooden frame with clear polythene stretched over it can do a similar job without blocking light from evergreens, but don’t let the polythene touch the foliage, as condensation at these points could freeze, or cause rots.
Before the birds eat them all, cut a few stems of holly with berries for making Christmas garlands. Stand them in a bucket of water in a sheltered spot where our feathered friends can't take them.
Bare-root deciduous hedging plants, trees and shrubs become available this month. They need to be planted promptly, before they dry out. They can be heeled into the soil for a short period if conditions are not suitable for planting. You can still order and plant containerised trees and shrubs, and large semi-mature specimens for planting later in the winter, when bare-root plants are no longer available.November is the perfect time to plant a magnolia tree for a beautiful spring display. It is also an ideal time to plant roses. Start to plant bare-root roses - they can be planted any time between now and March. Avoid planting in areas where roses were previously growing otherwise new introductions may suffer from replant diseases (rose sickness).
This is also a good time to transplant trees and shrubs growing in unsuitable positions. However, if they are more than a couple of years old, you are unlikely to be able to remove an intact enough rootball to ensure the plant’s survival in its new position, and you may be best advised to leave well alone.Protect newly planted trees, hedges and shrubs from wind and cold. A temporary netting windbreak is sufficient where there is no natural shelter. Straw, bracken, or something similar can be used to pack around deciduous plants and protect them from frost. A wooden frame with clear polythene stretched over it can do a similar job without blocking light from evergreens, but don’t let the polythene touch the foliage, as condensation at these points could freeze, or cause rots.
Pruning and training
Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can be carried out from now throughout the dormant season. It is easier to see what you are doing when the branches have no leaves. Suitable examples are Fagus and Corylus. Exceptions are tender plants, and also Prunus species (e.g. ornamental cherries, plums and almonds), as these are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned in the autumn or winter. Evergreens are best left until the spring.
Lightly prune bush roses now, if not done already, as reducing their height will prevent wind rock. These plants are generally shallow-rooted and can become loose in the soil if buffeted by strong winds. Climbing roses should be pruned by now, these are usually done much earlier in the autumn. Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring - such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba and Lavatera - can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and neaten their appearance. Over-large trees might be difficult for you to prune, take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches. It may be best to consult a tree surgeon. Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage. Any growth that refuses to be trained in this way can be pruned off.
Pruning and renovation of many deciduous trees, shrubs and hedges can be carried out from now throughout the dormant season. It is easier to see what you are doing when the branches have no leaves. Suitable examples are Fagus and Corylus. Exceptions are tender plants, and also Prunus species (e.g. ornamental cherries, plums and almonds), as these are vulnerable to silver leaf if pruned in the autumn or winter. Evergreens are best left until the spring.
Lightly prune bush roses now, if not done already, as reducing their height will prevent wind rock. These plants are generally shallow-rooted and can become loose in the soil if buffeted by strong winds. Climbing roses should be pruned by now, these are usually done much earlier in the autumn. Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring - such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba and Lavatera - can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and neaten their appearance. Over-large trees might be difficult for you to prune, take care not to damage the tree when sawing off thicker branches. It may be best to consult a tree surgeon. Tie wall shrubs and climbers onto their supports to protect them from wind damage. Any growth that refuses to be trained in this way can be pruned off.
Propagation
Take hardwood cuttings of ornamental shrubs such as Cornus, Euonymus, Forsythia, Hydrangea, Ilex and Salix.
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting out or potting on, and any diseased ones should be removed to prevent this spreading to other plants.
Soft and semi-ripe cuttings taken earlier this year should also be checked for disease.
Check hardwood cuttings taken last year. They may need planting out or potting on, and any diseased ones should be removed to prevent this spreading to other plants.
Soft and semi-ripe cuttings taken earlier this year should also be checked for disease.
General maintenance
Check tree stakes and ties are secure and will withstand the winter weather; ensure that ties are not strangling trunks or branches - they may need loosening. If there is snow in your area, then you may need to brush this off the branches of conifers. Heavy snowfall can splay branches and spoil the shape of the tree. Make time to give evergreen hedges a final trim before the bad weather sets in, so they look neat and tidy for the winter.
Pest and disease watch
Garden hygiene helps greatly in the prevention of disease carry-over from one year to the next. It is always a good idea to rake up and destroy, do not compost, any infected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses, scab on apples and pears and quince leaf blight can all be controlled to some extent in this way.
root rots can cause dieback on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly-drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants. Damage from bay suckers may still be evident, although the pests will have been and gone. However, it is a good idea to remove affected leaves if there are only a few, and to take note to look out for damage next spring (usually around May) - the problem should then be treated promptly. When pruning trees and shrubs, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, dieback, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.Toadstools are often visible at this time of year, and many people are concerned that they may be finding honey fungus. Honey fungus fruiting bodies (toadstools) usually appear on, or at the bases of, affected trees. Coral spot is often noticed once the leaves have fallen from deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as found inside clipped hedges), but it is more a sign of unsuitable conditions than a serious pathogen in itself.
Check tree stakes and ties are secure and will withstand the winter weather; ensure that ties are not strangling trunks or branches - they may need loosening. If there is snow in your area, then you may need to brush this off the branches of conifers. Heavy snowfall can splay branches and spoil the shape of the tree. Make time to give evergreen hedges a final trim before the bad weather sets in, so they look neat and tidy for the winter.
Pest and disease watch
Garden hygiene helps greatly in the prevention of disease carry-over from one year to the next. It is always a good idea to rake up and destroy, do not compost, any infected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses, scab on apples and pears and quince leaf blight can all be controlled to some extent in this way.
root rots can cause dieback on mature trees and shrubs. Wet winter weather and poorly-drained soils are likely to encourage this problem on susceptible woody plants. Damage from bay suckers may still be evident, although the pests will have been and gone. However, it is a good idea to remove affected leaves if there are only a few, and to take note to look out for damage next spring (usually around May) - the problem should then be treated promptly. When pruning trees and shrubs, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, dieback, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.Toadstools are often visible at this time of year, and many people are concerned that they may be finding honey fungus. Honey fungus fruiting bodies (toadstools) usually appear on, or at the bases of, affected trees. Coral spot is often noticed once the leaves have fallen from deciduous hedges, shrubs and trees. This problem can be connected with poor ventilation and congested, un-pruned twiggy growth (as found inside clipped hedges), but it is more a sign of unsuitable conditions than a serious pathogen in itself.
Looking after your lawn
Rake fallen leaves off lawns before they block out light and moisture from the grass. Try gathering your leaves on to the lawn and mow them with a rotary mower that has a collection box on the back. They will rot down quicker in your compost bins. Mowing will help to deal with any annual weeds that have sprung up in new lawns sown earlier in the autumn. Remember to set your lawn mower to a higher cut-height for winter. Grass will continue to grow in temperatures above 5°C (41°F), so if the weather remains mild it may be necessary to trim the lawn with a mower. Ensure the cut is 3-5mm higher than in summer to prevent turf stress. On average, this means a cutting height of around 4cm (1.5in). If you haven't already aerated your lawn, there's still time to do it before winter sets in. You can use either a lawn aerator or simply insert a garden fork at regular intervals and lean it back slightly to let air in. In mild parts of the country, you can still carry out autumn lawn care i.e. scarification, aeration and top dressing as long as the soil isn't waterlogged. This will improve the lawn’s performance next year. Don't do this in frosty weather, very wet weather or snow. Now your beds are clear, try edging your lawn. Lawn edging creates a neat and tidy appearance and makes maintenance easier.
Rake fallen leaves off lawns before they block out light and moisture from the grass. Try gathering your leaves on to the lawn and mow them with a rotary mower that has a collection box on the back. They will rot down quicker in your compost bins. Mowing will help to deal with any annual weeds that have sprung up in new lawns sown earlier in the autumn. Remember to set your lawn mower to a higher cut-height for winter. Grass will continue to grow in temperatures above 5°C (41°F), so if the weather remains mild it may be necessary to trim the lawn with a mower. Ensure the cut is 3-5mm higher than in summer to prevent turf stress. On average, this means a cutting height of around 4cm (1.5in). If you haven't already aerated your lawn, there's still time to do it before winter sets in. You can use either a lawn aerator or simply insert a garden fork at regular intervals and lean it back slightly to let air in. In mild parts of the country, you can still carry out autumn lawn care i.e. scarification, aeration and top dressing as long as the soil isn't waterlogged. This will improve the lawn’s performance next year. Don't do this in frosty weather, very wet weather or snow. Now your beds are clear, try edging your lawn. Lawn edging creates a neat and tidy appearance and makes maintenance easier.
Don'ts
Avoid walking on lawns on frosty mornings. It can damage the grass and often leads to brown footprint-shaped marks. It is now too late to sow grass seed, but new lawns can still be laid from turf if the weather is not too cold. Don’t feed the lawn with left-over summer feeds. These contain too much nitrogen, which stimulates lush growth; at this time of year, lush growth will be vulnerable to diseases. Use an autumn lawn feed, which contains more potassium and phosphorous, to encourage hardiness and root growth instead. It is too late to apply lawn weedkillers now – effectiveness will be much reduced.
Troubleshooting
Toadstools often appear on lawns at this time of year. They generally do very little damage but are best removed if small children are present. Most are harmless saprophytic fungi. Some fungi such as fairy rings can lead to reduced availability of water and nutrients to the grass, resulting in a change in colour of affected lawn areas. Lawn maintenance can help deter the occurrence of such fungal problems. If your lawn suffers dieback from treading during the wet, muddy season, then you may wish to lay stepping-stones through it to allow easy access across it without causing damage. Stones can be laid at a low enough level to avoid interference with mowing. Watch your lawn for signs of waterlogging as the weather gets wetter. You may be able to remedy this with some maintenance - either now, next spring, or the following autumn, according to the weather. Algae can be a problem on lawns where there is poor drainage, excessive shade, or under the drip-line of trees. Worm casts can still be a problem in some areas
Toadstools often appear on lawns at this time of year. They generally do very little damage but are best removed if small children are present. Most are harmless saprophytic fungi. Some fungi such as fairy rings can lead to reduced availability of water and nutrients to the grass, resulting in a change in colour of affected lawn areas. Lawn maintenance can help deter the occurrence of such fungal problems. If your lawn suffers dieback from treading during the wet, muddy season, then you may wish to lay stepping-stones through it to allow easy access across it without causing damage. Stones can be laid at a low enough level to avoid interference with mowing. Watch your lawn for signs of waterlogging as the weather gets wetter. You may be able to remedy this with some maintenance - either now, next spring, or the following autumn, according to the weather. Algae can be a problem on lawns where there is poor drainage, excessive shade, or under the drip-line of trees. Worm casts can still be a problem in some areas
In the Vegetable Garden
Finish harvesting beans and peas. When beans and peas finish cropping simply cut the plant away at ground level, leaving the roots in the soil. These crops fix nitrogen which is slowly released into the soil as the roots break down.
If you plan to grow beans next year, start preparing the site by digging trenches and filling with manure or kitchen waste.Harvest squashes and pumpkins before the first frosts. They will quickly turn mushy if left outside!
When you harvest your cabbages, leave the root in the ground and make a cut across the stem to encourage a flush of smaller leaves.
Any plants with green tomatoes or peppers remaining can be hung upside down indoors to ripen.
Protect autumn cauliflower heads from frost by wrapping the outer leaves around them and securing with string, alternatively use a cloche or fleece.
Continue to plant autumn garlic bulbs now for a bumper crop next summer.
Plant autumn onion sets for cropping next summer.
Try growing mushrooms. Now is an ideal time to invest in mushroom kits.
Cut back yellowing asparagus foliage to within 5cm of the ground.
Reuse old grow bags by cutting away the top and sowing late salad crops. Cropping can be extended into winter if grown under glass, cloches or polytunnels.
In the Fruit Garden
Cut back the fruited canes of Summer raspberries.If you haven't done so already, cut back the fruited canes of your summer fruiting raspberries, leaving the new green canes for next year's crop. Tie in next year's raspberry canes to support wires or fencing.
Move citrus trees indoors to a bright, frost free position (4-12°C) away from cold draughts and radiators. Reduce watering in winter but do not let the plant dry out completely.
Now is the perfect time to order strawberry runners and plant up a strawberry patch for cropping next year.
Clear the straw from around the base of strawberry plants to increase ventilation. Shear back old foliage to encourage fresh new growth.
Divide congested clumps of rhubarb by digging up and splittng into several pieces with a spade. Re-plant the healthiest looking pieces.
When planting blueberry plants make sure you have an acid soil or alternatively grow them in pots of ericaceous compost.
Autumn is an ideal time to plant many varieties of fruit trees and get ready to enjoy delicious fresh fruit straight from your garden or allotment.
Apples should come away easily when ripe. To test when apples are ripe gently lift them in the palm of your hand or give them a gentle pull - they should come away easily. Remove any diseased fruits from branches or the ground as they may spread infections to next year's crops. Wrap glue bands around the trunks of apple trees to trap winter moth females whose caterpillars shred spring flowers.
Remove the netting from fruit cages to allow birds to catch and eat any pests that are lurking there.
Apply a winter wash to the trunks and branches of fruit trees to kill off overwintering pests.
When planting blueberry plants make sure you have an acid soil or alternatively grow them in pots of ericaceous compost.
Autumn is an ideal time to plant many varieties of fruit trees and get ready to enjoy delicious fresh fruit straight from your garden or allotment.
Apples should come away easily when ripe. To test when apples are ripe gently lift them in the palm of your hand or give them a gentle pull - they should come away easily. Remove any diseased fruits from branches or the ground as they may spread infections to next year's crops. Wrap glue bands around the trunks of apple trees to trap winter moth females whose caterpillars shred spring flowers.
Remove the netting from fruit cages to allow birds to catch and eat any pests that are lurking there.
Apply a winter wash to the trunks and branches of fruit trees to kill off overwintering pests.
In the Greenhouse
If your greenhouse is fairly empty, now is a good time to clean and disinfect it. This allows more light in and prevents pests and diseases over-wintering.If you haven't done so already, remove any greenhouse shading to allow as much light in as possible.
Move tender plants into the greenhouse to protect them from early frosts. Make sure that there is enough space between them to keep them well ventilated and reduce the risk of disease.
Check any plants which you are bringing inside for pests such as aphids.
Continue to remove any fallen or dead plant material to keep the growing area free of fungal diseases.
Set up your greenhouse heater in case of early frosts.
Other Jobs round the Garden
Reuse spent compost from annual container displays as a mulch on the garden.
Create compost bins for collecting fallen leaves and dead plant material.
Collect leaves up for making leaf mould as a soil conditioner. Oak, Alder and Hornbeam will rot down in a year but beech, sycamore, horse chestnut and sweet chestnut will take a couple of years to compost.
Sweep up debris and fallen leaves that harbour overwintering fungal spores and hiding places for slugs and snails.
Start preparing a bonfire with twigs and prunings - cover them with plastic so they remain dry for better burning later. (Make sure you check for hedgehogs before lighting your bonfire)
Net ponds to prevent leaves falling into them. If you need to clear pond weed lay it next to the pond for a day to allow wildlife to escape back to the water.
Clean out water butts and let the autumn rains refill them. Install a new waterbutt ready for next year.
If the soil is dry, give your garden one last good watering before the ground freezes.
Use the last of the dry weather to paint sheds and fences with preservative before the winter arrives.
Build a cold frame to protect young plants from extreme winter weather.
Check stored onions and garlic and remove any rotting bulbs immediately. The neck of the bulb is usually the first area to rot. Try using onion bags to improve air flow.
Check stored potatoes and remove any that are rotting. Use Hessian sacks to store your potatoes as this will allow the crop to breathe.
Make time to give evergreen hedges a final trim before the bad weather sets in, so they look neat and tidy for the winter.
Once plants are dormant, it is a good time to lift and relocate any plant that you want to move.
Raise pots off the ground for the winter by using bricks or 'pot feet', to prevent waterlogging.
Wooden garden furniture will need covering or storing for the winter and terracotta pots will need bringing inside
Reuse spent compost from annual container displays as a mulch on the garden.
Create compost bins for collecting fallen leaves and dead plant material.
Collect leaves up for making leaf mould as a soil conditioner. Oak, Alder and Hornbeam will rot down in a year but beech, sycamore, horse chestnut and sweet chestnut will take a couple of years to compost.
Sweep up debris and fallen leaves that harbour overwintering fungal spores and hiding places for slugs and snails.
Start preparing a bonfire with twigs and prunings - cover them with plastic so they remain dry for better burning later. (Make sure you check for hedgehogs before lighting your bonfire)
Net ponds to prevent leaves falling into them. If you need to clear pond weed lay it next to the pond for a day to allow wildlife to escape back to the water.
Clean out water butts and let the autumn rains refill them. Install a new waterbutt ready for next year.
If the soil is dry, give your garden one last good watering before the ground freezes.
Use the last of the dry weather to paint sheds and fences with preservative before the winter arrives.
Build a cold frame to protect young plants from extreme winter weather.
Check stored onions and garlic and remove any rotting bulbs immediately. The neck of the bulb is usually the first area to rot. Try using onion bags to improve air flow.
Check stored potatoes and remove any that are rotting. Use Hessian sacks to store your potatoes as this will allow the crop to breathe.
Make time to give evergreen hedges a final trim before the bad weather sets in, so they look neat and tidy for the winter.
Once plants are dormant, it is a good time to lift and relocate any plant that you want to move.
Raise pots off the ground for the winter by using bricks or 'pot feet', to prevent waterlogging.
Wooden garden furniture will need covering or storing for the winter and terracotta pots will need bringing inside
