Cronton Garden Centre
Cronton Road
Cronton
WA8 5QJ
email: mail@crontonnurseries.co.uk
October Tips
By October the garden is beginning to look autumnal, but it is still a busy month for harvesting and storing produce, along with cutting back and tidying herbaceous plants The weather is capricious in October, one day Indian Summer and the next day frost. Although we had some warmer days over September, the autumn is now definitely here for real, and it feels colder. It is a beautiful time of year, with the trees changing colour. Sometimes it may seem pointless raking, when the wind blows even more leaves onto the lawn, but just think of all the lovely leaf mould you can make! It is also time to start preparing for early frosts.
October Garden Tips
In the Flower Garden
Autumn is the ideal time for planting clematis plants
There is still time to direct sow hardy annualsThis month is ideal time to move trees and shrubs and plant hedges
Clear up fallen rose leaves to prevent diseases such as black spot from over-wintering – don’t compost the leaves
Clear overhanging plants away from pathways to maintain routes through the garden
Cut back perennial plants that have died down or alternatively leave the dead foliage in place for over-wintering wildlife
Lift and divide any overcrowded herbaceous perennials whilst the soil is still warm
After tidying borders, mulch with bark chips, well rotted manure. Leaf mould or spent mushroom compost to insulate plant roots for the winter
Tips for planting bulbs
October is the best time for daffodils; November for tulips. When buying bulbs, reject any that are soft or showing signs of mould. Small bulbs may not flower in their first year.
The right preparation is needed before planting your bulbs. Remove weeds and incorporate lots of compost or other organic matter when planting bulbs. On heavy soils, dig in horticultural grit. Bulbs grown in pots need good drainage so put plenty of crocks in the bottom and use a well-drained compost. Specialised bulb composts are expensive and only necessary in pots with poor drainage. Bulbs should be planted in holes three to four times as deep as the bulb itself. So, for example, a 1in crocus bulb needs to be planted in a hole 3-4in deep. If you are not sure which way is up, plant the bulb on its side - its stem will find its own way up.
The traditional time to start forcing hyacinths into flower is the third week of September, so they flower in time for Christmas. But there is always a surfeit of goodies at Christmas, so consider forcing bulbs for the lean weeks of January and February instead. Hyacinths will flower 10-12 weeks from potting if kept in a cool, dark room (or under a cardboard box) until they have shoots about 2in tall. 'Paper White' narcissi flower 8-10 weeks from potting and don't need to be kept in the dark.
Fill large plastic pots with your favourite bulbs and, just before they are about to flower, use them to plug holes in the border. Plastic pots can also be slipped inside more elegant terracotta ones and whipped out when the bulbs are over. Store the pots behind a shed to allow the foliage to die down, keep them weed-free, top-dress with a layer of compost in the autumn, and bring them out again the following year. Plant labels can look ugly but are indispensable for marking the position of bulbs whose foliage has died back. A discreet wooden label will prevent the frustration caused by plunging a fork into a border and spearing a clump of your favourite alliums.
The dry conditions at the base of hedges make ideal growing conditions for many bulbs. Tulips, and particularly species tulips, will be very happy on the south-facing side of a hedge, and can be left undisturbed for years.
The biggest destroyer of bulbs, particularly in urban gardens, is the squirrel. Although they dig up daffodils they don't eat them. But they have a voracious appetite for crocus and tulips. Planting the bulbs deeper than normal can help. Bulbs are most vulnerable after planting, when the soil is easy for squirrels to dig. Chicken-wire placed over the pot, or the freshly dug soil, will deter them.
It's not just crocus that will grow in lawns and short grass. Many miniature irises, particularly Iris histrioides, will be perfectly happy in a lawn that does not become waterlogged. Of the dwarf narcissi, it is the cyclamineus hybrids that are the best adapted to the conditions. Narcissus cyclamineus 'Jenny', which has creamy white flowers, spreads well in lawns. To plant, remove the turf with a spade or bulb planter, place the bulbs underneath and replace the turf. Don't cut the lawn until the bulbs' foliage has died down.
Wallflowers or forget-me-nots are the traditional partners for tulips. In pots and window boxes use violas instead - they will start flowering long before the tulips and provide a wide range of colour combinations. Even in small gardens, massed plantings of a limited number of varieties is always most effective. In pots, allow for a dozen tulips per 12in container.
Left in the ground, tulips degenerate each year until they die; lifted, stored and replanted the following November they re-flower well. After flowering, remove the seed head and wait for the foliage to yellow and die back, then lift the bulbs, clean off any soil and store in boxes or net bags in a cool, dry place.
Plant pots and window boxes with no more than two layers of bulbs to prevent the unsightly spectacle of later-flowering plants appearing through the dying foliage of earlier ones.
October is the best time for daffodils; November for tulips. When buying bulbs, reject any that are soft or showing signs of mould. Small bulbs may not flower in their first year.
The right preparation is needed before planting your bulbs. Remove weeds and incorporate lots of compost or other organic matter when planting bulbs. On heavy soils, dig in horticultural grit. Bulbs grown in pots need good drainage so put plenty of crocks in the bottom and use a well-drained compost. Specialised bulb composts are expensive and only necessary in pots with poor drainage. Bulbs should be planted in holes three to four times as deep as the bulb itself. So, for example, a 1in crocus bulb needs to be planted in a hole 3-4in deep. If you are not sure which way is up, plant the bulb on its side - its stem will find its own way up.
The traditional time to start forcing hyacinths into flower is the third week of September, so they flower in time for Christmas. But there is always a surfeit of goodies at Christmas, so consider forcing bulbs for the lean weeks of January and February instead. Hyacinths will flower 10-12 weeks from potting if kept in a cool, dark room (or under a cardboard box) until they have shoots about 2in tall. 'Paper White' narcissi flower 8-10 weeks from potting and don't need to be kept in the dark.
Fill large plastic pots with your favourite bulbs and, just before they are about to flower, use them to plug holes in the border. Plastic pots can also be slipped inside more elegant terracotta ones and whipped out when the bulbs are over. Store the pots behind a shed to allow the foliage to die down, keep them weed-free, top-dress with a layer of compost in the autumn, and bring them out again the following year. Plant labels can look ugly but are indispensable for marking the position of bulbs whose foliage has died back. A discreet wooden label will prevent the frustration caused by plunging a fork into a border and spearing a clump of your favourite alliums.
The dry conditions at the base of hedges make ideal growing conditions for many bulbs. Tulips, and particularly species tulips, will be very happy on the south-facing side of a hedge, and can be left undisturbed for years.
The biggest destroyer of bulbs, particularly in urban gardens, is the squirrel. Although they dig up daffodils they don't eat them. But they have a voracious appetite for crocus and tulips. Planting the bulbs deeper than normal can help. Bulbs are most vulnerable after planting, when the soil is easy for squirrels to dig. Chicken-wire placed over the pot, or the freshly dug soil, will deter them.
It's not just crocus that will grow in lawns and short grass. Many miniature irises, particularly Iris histrioides, will be perfectly happy in a lawn that does not become waterlogged. Of the dwarf narcissi, it is the cyclamineus hybrids that are the best adapted to the conditions. Narcissus cyclamineus 'Jenny', which has creamy white flowers, spreads well in lawns. To plant, remove the turf with a spade or bulb planter, place the bulbs underneath and replace the turf. Don't cut the lawn until the bulbs' foliage has died down.
Wallflowers or forget-me-nots are the traditional partners for tulips. In pots and window boxes use violas instead - they will start flowering long before the tulips and provide a wide range of colour combinations. Even in small gardens, massed plantings of a limited number of varieties is always most effective. In pots, allow for a dozen tulips per 12in container.
Left in the ground, tulips degenerate each year until they die; lifted, stored and replanted the following November they re-flower well. After flowering, remove the seed head and wait for the foliage to yellow and die back, then lift the bulbs, clean off any soil and store in boxes or net bags in a cool, dry place.
Plant pots and window boxes with no more than two layers of bulbs to prevent the unsightly spectacle of later-flowering plants appearing through the dying foliage of earlier ones.
Trees and shrubs
Planting and moving
October is an ideal time for moving and planting trees, shrubs and climbers, as well as for hedge planting.
Bare-root - Deciduous trees and shrubs, as well as root-wrapped evergreens, become available towards the end of the month, so you could think ahead and prepare the ground for them now. They are cheaper than containerised plants, and are the perfect choice whenever large numbers are needed - perhaps for a new hedge, woodland or a rose bed.
Containers - You can still order containerised trees and shrubs, and large semi-mature specimens, for planting over the winter.
Pruning and training
Last chance to trim deciduous hedges to keep them looking tidy over the winter. Climbing roses should be pruned now if not done last month. Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba, and Lavatera, can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and to neaten their appearance.
Propagation
Take hardwood cuttings of plants such as Rosa, Cotinus, Salix and Forsythia. Check softwood and semi-ripe cuttings taken earlier in the season. They may need potting on, or selective removal of individual plants that have succumbed to rot (in order to prevent cross-infection).
Berries, fruits and seeds can be gathered from trees and shrubs, once ripe, for immediate sowing.
General maintenance
If the weather is dry, keep watering early-flowering shrubs such as camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas, so that flower buds are initiated successfully for blooms next spring. Use recycled or stored rainwater wherever possible.
Check tree ties and stakes before winter gales cause damage.
Place healthy fallen leaves on the compost heap or into separate pens for rotting down into leaf mould. Shredding leaves first with a shredder or mower will help them break down quicker.
Pest and disease watch
Garden hygiene helps prevent pests and disease being carried over from one year to the next. Rake up and destroy - do not compost - any affected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses, leaf blight on quince, and scab on apples and pears can all be partially controlled in this way.
Honey fungus toadstools begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are also many harmless, saprophytic fungi appearing at this time of year, living purely on dead material and pose no threat to garden plants. If the plants look healthy, then there is unlikely to be cause for concern.
Watch out for fungal diseases such as grey mould (Botrytis) or powdery mildew. Although less common on shrubs than on herbaceous plants, they may still cause problems when the weather is conducive.
Cultural controls are more effective than sprays at this time of year. Pruning to increase ventilation, and prompt removal of affected leaves, flowers or fruits is crucial. When pruning, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, die-back, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.
Planting and moving
October is an ideal time for moving and planting trees, shrubs and climbers, as well as for hedge planting.
Bare-root - Deciduous trees and shrubs, as well as root-wrapped evergreens, become available towards the end of the month, so you could think ahead and prepare the ground for them now. They are cheaper than containerised plants, and are the perfect choice whenever large numbers are needed - perhaps for a new hedge, woodland or a rose bed.
Containers - You can still order containerised trees and shrubs, and large semi-mature specimens, for planting over the winter.
Pruning and training
Last chance to trim deciduous hedges to keep them looking tidy over the winter. Climbing roses should be pruned now if not done last month. Shrubs normally pruned hard in the spring such as Buddleja davidii, Cornus alba, and Lavatera, can be cut back by half now, to prevent wind rock and to neaten their appearance.
Propagation
Take hardwood cuttings of plants such as Rosa, Cotinus, Salix and Forsythia. Check softwood and semi-ripe cuttings taken earlier in the season. They may need potting on, or selective removal of individual plants that have succumbed to rot (in order to prevent cross-infection).
Berries, fruits and seeds can be gathered from trees and shrubs, once ripe, for immediate sowing.
General maintenance
If the weather is dry, keep watering early-flowering shrubs such as camellias, rhododendrons and azaleas, so that flower buds are initiated successfully for blooms next spring. Use recycled or stored rainwater wherever possible.
Check tree ties and stakes before winter gales cause damage.
Place healthy fallen leaves on the compost heap or into separate pens for rotting down into leaf mould. Shredding leaves first with a shredder or mower will help them break down quicker.
Pest and disease watch
Garden hygiene helps prevent pests and disease being carried over from one year to the next. Rake up and destroy - do not compost - any affected leaves. Diseases such as black spot on roses, leaf blight on quince, and scab on apples and pears can all be partially controlled in this way.
Honey fungus toadstools begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are also many harmless, saprophytic fungi appearing at this time of year, living purely on dead material and pose no threat to garden plants. If the plants look healthy, then there is unlikely to be cause for concern.
Watch out for fungal diseases such as grey mould (Botrytis) or powdery mildew. Although less common on shrubs than on herbaceous plants, they may still cause problems when the weather is conducive.
Cultural controls are more effective than sprays at this time of year. Pruning to increase ventilation, and prompt removal of affected leaves, flowers or fruits is crucial. When pruning, take the opportunity to examine branches for signs of disease. Small cankers, die-back, and rotten, hollow stumps at the centre of old shrub bases, are best removed early on, before they spread.
Looking after your lawn
Clear up fallen leaves regularly to allow light to the grass.
A last mowing can be made this month before leaving your lawn for the winter. Make that last cut slightly higher to protect the lawn from winter frost
Recut any lawn edges if needed. Try installing lawn edging to make future maintenance easier.
Finish off essential lawn maintenance to avoid waterlogging and compaction over winter. Try aerating your lawn with a garden fork, raking thatch from the surface and repairing dead patches.
Fresh turf can still be laid now. Autumn rains should ensure the turf settles successfully.
Clear up fallen leaves regularly to allow light to the grass.
A last mowing can be made this month before leaving your lawn for the winter. Make that last cut slightly higher to protect the lawn from winter frost
Recut any lawn edges if needed. Try installing lawn edging to make future maintenance easier.
Finish off essential lawn maintenance to avoid waterlogging and compaction over winter. Try aerating your lawn with a garden fork, raking thatch from the surface and repairing dead patches.
Fresh turf can still be laid now. Autumn rains should ensure the turf settles successfully.
In the Vegetable Garden
Finish harvesting beans and peas. When beans and peas finish cropping simply cut the plant away at ground level, leaving the roots in the soil. These crops fix nitrogen which is slowly released into the soil as the roots break down.
If you plan to grow beans next year, start preparing the site by digging trenches and filling with manure or kitchen waste.Harvest squashes and pumpkins before the first frosts. They will quickly turn mushy if left outside!
When you harvest your cabbages, leave the root in the ground and make a cut across the stem to encourage a flush of smaller leaves.
Any plants with green tomatoes or peppers remaining can be hung upside down indoors to ripen.
Protect autumn cauliflower heads from frost by wrapping the outer leaves around them and securing with string. Alternatively use a cloche or fleece.
Continue to plant autumn garlic bulbs now for a bumper crop next summer.
Plant autumn onion sets for cropping next summer.
Try growing mushrooms Now is an ideal time to invest in mushroom kits.
Cut back yellowing asparagus foliage to within 5cm of the ground.
Reuse old grow bags by cutting away the top and sowing late salad crops. Cropping can be extended into winter if grown under glass, cloches or polytunnels.
In the Fruit Garden
Cut back the fruited canes of Summer raspberries.If you haven't done so already, cut back the fruited canes of your summer fruiting raspberries, leaving the new green canes for next year's crop. Tie in next year's raspberry canes to support wires or fencing.
Move citrus trees indoors to a bright, frost free position (4-12°C) away from cold draughts and radiators. Reduce watering in winter but do not let the plant dry out completely.
Now is the perfect time to order strawberry runners and plant up a strawberry patch for cropping next year.
Clear the straw from around the base of strawberry plants to increase ventilation. Shear back old foliage to encourage fresh new growth.
Divide congested clumps of rhubarb by digging up and splittng into several pieces with a spade. Re-plant the healthiest looking pieces.
When planting blueberry plants make sure you have an acid soil or alternatively grow them in pots of ericaceous compost.
Autumn is an ideal time to plant many varieties of fruit trees. See our extensive range of fruit trees online and get ready to enjoy delicious fresh fruit straight from your garden or allotment.
Apples should come away easily when ripe
To test when apples are ripe gently lift them in the palm of your hand or give them a gentle pull - they should come away easily.
Remove any diseased fruits from branches or the ground as they may spread infections to next year's crops.
Wrap glue bands around the trunks of apple trees to trap winter moth females whose caterpillars shred spring flowers.
Remove the netting from fruit cages to allow birds to catch and eat any pests that are lurking there.
Apply a winter wash to the trunks and branches of fruit trees to kill off overwintering pests.
When planting blueberry plants make sure you have an acid soil or alternatively grow them in pots of ericaceous compost.
Autumn is an ideal time to plant many varieties of fruit trees. See our extensive range of fruit trees online and get ready to enjoy delicious fresh fruit straight from your garden or allotment.
Apples should come away easily when ripe
To test when apples are ripe gently lift them in the palm of your hand or give them a gentle pull - they should come away easily.
Remove any diseased fruits from branches or the ground as they may spread infections to next year's crops.
Wrap glue bands around the trunks of apple trees to trap winter moth females whose caterpillars shred spring flowers.
Remove the netting from fruit cages to allow birds to catch and eat any pests that are lurking there.
Apply a winter wash to the trunks and branches of fruit trees to kill off overwintering pests.
In the Greenhouse
If your greenhouse is fairly empty, now is a good time to clean and disinfect it. This allows more light in and prevents pests and diseases over-wintering.If you haven't done so already, remove any greenhouse shading to allow as much light in as possible.
Move tender plants into the greenhouse to protect them from early frosts. Make sure that there is enough space between them to keep them well ventilated and reduce the risk of disease.
Check any plants which you are bringing inside for pests such as aphids.
Continue to remove any fallen or dead plant material to keep the growing area free of fungal diseases.
Set up your greenhouse heater in case of early frosts.
Other Jobs round the Garden
Reuse spent compost from annual container displays as a mulch on the garden.
Create compost bins for collecting fallen leaves and dead plant material.
Collect leaves up for making leaf mould as a soil conditioner. Oak, Alder and Hornbeam will rot down in a year but beech, sycamore, horse chestnut and sweet chestnut will take a couple of years to compost.
Sweep up debris and fallen leaves that harbour overwintering fungal spores and hiding places for slugs and snails.
Start preparing a bonfire with twigs and prunings - cover them with plastic so they remain dry for better burning later. (Make sure you check for hedgehogs before lighting your bonfire)
Net ponds to prevent leaves falling into them. If you need to clear pond weed lay it next to the pond for a day to allow wildlife to escape back to the water.
Clean out water butts and let the autumn rains refill them. Install a new waterbutt ready for next year.
If the soil is dry, give your garden one last good watering before the ground freezes.
Use the last of the dry weather to paint sheds and fences with preservative before the winter arrives.
Build a cold frame to protect young plants from extreme winter weather.
Check stored onions and garlic and remove any rotting bulbs immediately. The neck of the bulb is usually the first area to rot. Try using onion bags to improve air flow.
Check stored potatoes and remove any that are rotting. Use Hessian sacks to store your potatoes as this will allow the crop to breathe.
Make time to give evergreen hedges a final trim before the bad weather sets in, so they look neat and tidy for the winter.
Once plants are dormant, it is a good time to lift and relocate any plant that you want to move.
Raise pots off the ground for the winter by using bricks or 'pot feet', to prevent waterlogging.
Invest in bird baths and bird feeders this autumn. Birds are gardeners friends and will keep pest numbers down.
Wooden garden furniture will need covering or storing for the winter and terracotta pots will need bringing inside
Reuse spent compost from annual container displays as a mulch on the garden.
Create compost bins for collecting fallen leaves and dead plant material.
Collect leaves up for making leaf mould as a soil conditioner. Oak, Alder and Hornbeam will rot down in a year but beech, sycamore, horse chestnut and sweet chestnut will take a couple of years to compost.
Sweep up debris and fallen leaves that harbour overwintering fungal spores and hiding places for slugs and snails.
Start preparing a bonfire with twigs and prunings - cover them with plastic so they remain dry for better burning later. (Make sure you check for hedgehogs before lighting your bonfire)
Net ponds to prevent leaves falling into them. If you need to clear pond weed lay it next to the pond for a day to allow wildlife to escape back to the water.
Clean out water butts and let the autumn rains refill them. Install a new waterbutt ready for next year.
If the soil is dry, give your garden one last good watering before the ground freezes.
Use the last of the dry weather to paint sheds and fences with preservative before the winter arrives.
Build a cold frame to protect young plants from extreme winter weather.
Check stored onions and garlic and remove any rotting bulbs immediately. The neck of the bulb is usually the first area to rot. Try using onion bags to improve air flow.
Check stored potatoes and remove any that are rotting. Use Hessian sacks to store your potatoes as this will allow the crop to breathe.
Make time to give evergreen hedges a final trim before the bad weather sets in, so they look neat and tidy for the winter.
Once plants are dormant, it is a good time to lift and relocate any plant that you want to move.
Raise pots off the ground for the winter by using bricks or 'pot feet', to prevent waterlogging.
Invest in bird baths and bird feeders this autumn. Birds are gardeners friends and will keep pest numbers down.
Wooden garden furniture will need covering or storing for the winter and terracotta pots will need bringing inside
