Cronton Garden Centre
Cronton Road
Cronton
WA8 5QJ
email: mail@crontonnurseries.co.uk
September Tips
September Garden Tips
In the Flower Garden
Plants
Keep deadheading annuals and perennials to extend their performance.Keep dead-heading your Penstemons, Dahlias and Roses to prolong flowering.
Keep your Camellias and Rhododendrons well-watered at this time of year to ensure that next year's buds develop well.
Continue to feed and dead-head your hanging basket and container plants - they will often keep going until the first frosts.
Try autumn-sowing hardy annuals for bigger plants next year.
Start to divide herbaceous perennials as the weather cools. Make sure you water in the new divisions well.
Fill gaps in borders with autumn flowering plants such as sedum and chrysanthemum to extend the colour to the end of the season.
Plant out any biennial plants sown earlier in the year, or if you didn't have time, you can buy plants now. This includes foxgloves, wallflowers and Violas.
September is a good time to plant new perennials as the soil is still warm but there is generally more rainfall.
With wetter weather arriving this month, it's the ideal time to order trees and shrubs. They will grow vigorously next spring if planted this autumn.
Bulbs
Spring bulbs, other than tulips, can be planted in the ground or pots now ready for next year. Plant hyacinth and amaryllis bulbs for forcing, to ensure a crowd of colourful blooms at Christmas. Perfect for a home-made Christmas present!
Remember that small bulbs dry out more quickley than big ones, so plant them first.
Handle crocuses with special care, since their shoots or 'noses' are easy to snap off. If you do break any off, plant the damaged corms anyway. They won't flower next spring but will produce clusters of blooms the following year.
Plant your bulbs deeply. This applies particularly to dwarf irisies such as Iris reticulata and the yellow I.danfordiae. Make sure that there is at least five inches of soil over each bulb. Larger narcissus bulbs will store longer, but are better off in the ground. They also benefit from deep planting and prefer soil which does not bake dry in the summer. Defer planting tulips until November. Late planting helps to prevent the fungal disease Tulip Fire from infecting bulbs.
Spring bulbs, other than tulips, can be planted in the ground or pots now ready for next year. Plant hyacinth and amaryllis bulbs for forcing, to ensure a crowd of colourful blooms at Christmas. Perfect for a home-made Christmas present!
Remember that small bulbs dry out more quickley than big ones, so plant them first.
Handle crocuses with special care, since their shoots or 'noses' are easy to snap off. If you do break any off, plant the damaged corms anyway. They won't flower next spring but will produce clusters of blooms the following year.
Plant your bulbs deeply. This applies particularly to dwarf irisies such as Iris reticulata and the yellow I.danfordiae. Make sure that there is at least five inches of soil over each bulb. Larger narcissus bulbs will store longer, but are better off in the ground. They also benefit from deep planting and prefer soil which does not bake dry in the summer. Defer planting tulips until November. Late planting helps to prevent the fungal disease Tulip Fire from infecting bulbs.
Trees and shrubs
Planting and moving
If the weather is already autumnal, you can now plant and move shrubs and trees without having to worry excessively about their survival and establishment. Shrubs planted now will get off to a flying start next spring, as they will have had all winter to settle in.
Pruning and training
Prune late-summer flowering shrubs such as Philadelphus (mock orange blossom) and give evergreen hedges a final trim to make sure they are in shape for winter.Climbing roses can be pruned once they have finished flowering; side-shoots from the main branches can be cut back to a couple of buds. Any dead, diseased or spindly growth should be cut out and new young shoots tied in to the supports, from the base. If there is an old, thick and woody, unproductive stem, it can be removed from the base to stimulate more vigorous growth.
Propagation
Take semi-ripe cuttings of evergreen shrubs such as Cistus, Ceanothus and Viburnum. Take hardwood cuttings of roses, choosing well-ripened, healthy shoots.
General maintenance
Thoroughly soak drought-stressed plants and shrubs, especially newly planted ones. As the weather becomes cooler and damper, the soil will better absorb and hold any extra water you give it.
Clear dead leaves promptly once they start to fall, as rotting leaves can be a source of disease in the garden. They are, however, useful on the compost heap and can be shredded first with a shredder or mulching mower, to help them break down quicker.
Planning ahead
Order mature or large plants now for planting in October or once the rains have moistened the soil.
Planting and moving
If the weather is already autumnal, you can now plant and move shrubs and trees without having to worry excessively about their survival and establishment. Shrubs planted now will get off to a flying start next spring, as they will have had all winter to settle in.
Pruning and training
Prune late-summer flowering shrubs such as Philadelphus (mock orange blossom) and give evergreen hedges a final trim to make sure they are in shape for winter.Climbing roses can be pruned once they have finished flowering; side-shoots from the main branches can be cut back to a couple of buds. Any dead, diseased or spindly growth should be cut out and new young shoots tied in to the supports, from the base. If there is an old, thick and woody, unproductive stem, it can be removed from the base to stimulate more vigorous growth.
Propagation
Take semi-ripe cuttings of evergreen shrubs such as Cistus, Ceanothus and Viburnum. Take hardwood cuttings of roses, choosing well-ripened, healthy shoots.
General maintenance
Thoroughly soak drought-stressed plants and shrubs, especially newly planted ones. As the weather becomes cooler and damper, the soil will better absorb and hold any extra water you give it.
Clear dead leaves promptly once they start to fall, as rotting leaves can be a source of disease in the garden. They are, however, useful on the compost heap and can be shredded first with a shredder or mulching mower, to help them break down quicker.
Planning ahead
Order mature or large plants now for planting in October or once the rains have moistened the soil.
Looking after your lawn
Create a new lawn from turf or seed - autumn weather is favourable for good lawn establishment.
Mowing
Mow less frequently during autumn and raise the height of cut as the growth rate of the grass slows down. This will help the lawn to withstand the last of the warm, dry weather, and keep it resistant to treading as the wet weather arrives.
Feeding
You can harden your lawn up for winter by applying an autumn lawn feed, which is high in potassium. Do this after scarifying and aerating but before applying a top dressing. Do not give summer feeds that are high in nitrogen as this will only result in weak, soft growth, which will be prone to disease in the autumn weather.
Soil improvement
Loam and sand top dressings are usually applied at a rate of 2kg per sq m (4.5lb per sq yd), working them into the lawn with a stiff brush or the back of a garden rake. If the proprietary product you use has specific application instructions, then do follow these closely.
Now is a good time to carry out essential lawn maintenance to avoid waterlogging and compaction. Try aerating your lawn with a garden fork, removing thatch from the surface with a rake and repairing dead patches. Use a specialist lawn scarifier if you have a large area to cover.
Apply a special lawn top-dressing after carrying out maintenance work. Follow the instructions on the packet carefully.
You can feed your lawn with an autumn fertiliser now, which is rich in potassium and low in nitrogen.
Now is the perfect time to use a biological control (nematodes) if you suspect damage from lawn chafers or leatherjackets.
Troubleshooting
Rectify summer damage by repairing a patchy lawn with turf or seed.
This month is your last chance to use a lawn weed-killers to control perennial weeds such as daises and buttercups.
Any brown patches caused by drought will quickly green up by themselves when the rain comes and the temperatures fall - usually towards the end of the month.
Good autumn lawn care will do much towards solving patches caused by problems such as fungi (e.g. fairy rings), moss and weeds. These problems usually develop on lawns that are already weakened by poor conditions - waterlogging, drought and compaction, for example.
Create a new lawn from turf or seed - autumn weather is favourable for good lawn establishment.
Mowing
Mow less frequently during autumn and raise the height of cut as the growth rate of the grass slows down. This will help the lawn to withstand the last of the warm, dry weather, and keep it resistant to treading as the wet weather arrives.
Feeding
You can harden your lawn up for winter by applying an autumn lawn feed, which is high in potassium. Do this after scarifying and aerating but before applying a top dressing. Do not give summer feeds that are high in nitrogen as this will only result in weak, soft growth, which will be prone to disease in the autumn weather.
Soil improvement
Loam and sand top dressings are usually applied at a rate of 2kg per sq m (4.5lb per sq yd), working them into the lawn with a stiff brush or the back of a garden rake. If the proprietary product you use has specific application instructions, then do follow these closely.
Now is a good time to carry out essential lawn maintenance to avoid waterlogging and compaction. Try aerating your lawn with a garden fork, removing thatch from the surface with a rake and repairing dead patches. Use a specialist lawn scarifier if you have a large area to cover.
Apply a special lawn top-dressing after carrying out maintenance work. Follow the instructions on the packet carefully.
You can feed your lawn with an autumn fertiliser now, which is rich in potassium and low in nitrogen.
Now is the perfect time to use a biological control (nematodes) if you suspect damage from lawn chafers or leatherjackets.
Troubleshooting
Rectify summer damage by repairing a patchy lawn with turf or seed.
This month is your last chance to use a lawn weed-killers to control perennial weeds such as daises and buttercups.
Any brown patches caused by drought will quickly green up by themselves when the rain comes and the temperatures fall - usually towards the end of the month.
Good autumn lawn care will do much towards solving patches caused by problems such as fungi (e.g. fairy rings), moss and weeds. These problems usually develop on lawns that are already weakened by poor conditions - waterlogging, drought and compaction, for example.
In the Vegetable Garden
Keep harvesting crops. If you have a glut of fruit and veg try freezing, drying, pickling, and storing so that you can benefit from them later.It's important to pinch out your cordon tomato plants now if you haven't already done so. This will concentrate the plant's energy into producing ripe fruits. Many tomato varieties are known as ‘cordon’ or ‘indeterminate’ varieties, which means that they are trained as one main stem that can reach over 2m tall.
To test if sweetcorn is ready, pinch a kernel - it will release a milky sap when ripe. If the kernels are starchy you've left it too late, if they're watery they need a little longer to ripen!
Pull or cut off the foliage of maincrop potatoes at ground level 3 weeks before lifting them to prevent blight spores infecting the tubers as you lift them. This will also help to firm the skins of the potatoes.
Spread newly dug potatoes out to dry for a few hours before storing them in in a cool dark place. Store them in paper or hessian sacks as this will allow the crop to breathe while it is in storage. Only store undamaged, disease free tubers - one rotten potato can ruin your whole crop!
Help your pumpkins ripen in time for Halloween by removing any leaves shadowing the fruits.
Place pumpkins and squashes on a piece of slate or wood to raise them off the wet soil and prevent rotting.
Keep feeding and watering French and runner beans to make the most of them. Continue harvesting little and often to prevent them setting seed.
Start the autumn cleanup. Remove any old crops that have finished and clear away weeds to leave your plot clean and tidy for the winter.
When beans and peas finish cropping simply cut the plant away at ground level, leaving the roots in the soil. These crops fix nitrogen which is slowly released into the soil as the roots break down.
Pot up some mint and parsley for the kitchen windowsill, to use through the winter.
Cover your brassicas with netting to prevent birds making a meal out of them.
The end of this month is the perfect time to start planting garlic bulbs for cropping next year.
Start planting autumn onion sets.
In the Fruit Garden
Order your strawberries, raspberries, blackberries or currant bushes for cropping next year as these plants are best planted during their dormant season.Pot up strawberry runners to make extra plants for next year. Plant out any rooted runners of strawberries for a good crop next year
Tidy up your strawberry plants and clear away any used straw, as this will harbour pests and diseases over winter.
Look out for rotting fruits on your pear, apple and plum trees. Pick them off as they will spread disease if left on the tree.
Pick blackberries as they ripen and use straight away or freeze some for use later on.
To test when apples are ripe gently lift them in the palm of your hand or give them a gentle pull - they should come away easily.
Pick plums. If you have more than you need, then freeze them by washing, halving and stoning them, before laying them out on a tray in the freezer. Once frozen, pack them into freezer bags.
Mow long grass under fruit trees to make it easier to spot windfall fruits.
Cover wall-trained peach trees to prevent peach leaf curl from taking hold. The fungus needs wet conditions to infect the plants.
If you haven't already, cut back the fruited canes of your summer raspberries, leaving the new green canes for next year's crop. Tie in next year's raspberry canes to support wires or fencing.
Take hardwood cuttings to increase your stock of currants, gooseberries & figs.
In the Greenhouse
Empty pots - old compost and decaying plant material can harbour unwanted pests in your greenhouse and provide ideal shelter for them over winter. Clean out your greenhouse to reduce the risk of pests and diseases next year.Don't forget to remove the shading from your greenhouse towards the end of the month so that your plants receive the maximum amount of light.
Water early on in the day so the greenhouse is dry by the evening. Damp, cool nights can encourage botrytis.
Close vents and doors late in the afternoon to help trap in heat overnight. This will ensure your plants crop for as long as possible.
Other Jobs round the Garden
If you have clay soil, now is the best time to improve it before it becomes too wet or frozen. Incorporate organic matter and/or horticultural grit.
Sow green manures such as mustard, clover and rye grass on uncultivated areas to improve soil and keep weeds down over winter.
Create compost bins in preparation for all the fallen leaves and dead plant material which you'll be collecting over the coming months. Autumn leaves make a great addition to compost bins and are ideal for making leaf mould.
Raise pots off the ground for the winter by using bricks or 'pot feet', to prevent waterlogging.
Clear pond weeds and net your pond in anticipation of autumn leaf fall.
Perennial weeds are more vulnerable to weed-killers in the autumn. Use a glyphosate-based weed-killer to kill both the leaves and roots.
Install water butts to collect rain this autumn and winter. Rain water is great for watering ericaceous plants such as blueberries, Rhododendrons and Camellias.
Pest and disease watch
Good garden hygiene helps to prevent disease, so it is vital to throw out or destroy affected leaves. Do not compost them or leave them lying, as this could spread the disease.
Saprophytic fungi (i.e. living entirely on dead matter) pose no threat to living garden plants. Honey fungus may be more common in areas of woody planting, whereas harmless fungi often pop up in areas of damp lawn or on mulch.
Honey fungus fruiting bodies will begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are many harmless fungi that appear at this time, so don't be overly alarmed.
Powdery mildew can still be troublesome in warm, dry, Indian summer weather. Unless it is severe, it will probably clear up once the rains arrive.
If you have clay soil, now is the best time to improve it before it becomes too wet or frozen. Incorporate organic matter and/or horticultural grit.
Sow green manures such as mustard, clover and rye grass on uncultivated areas to improve soil and keep weeds down over winter.
Create compost bins in preparation for all the fallen leaves and dead plant material which you'll be collecting over the coming months. Autumn leaves make a great addition to compost bins and are ideal for making leaf mould.
Raise pots off the ground for the winter by using bricks or 'pot feet', to prevent waterlogging.
Clear pond weeds and net your pond in anticipation of autumn leaf fall.
Perennial weeds are more vulnerable to weed-killers in the autumn. Use a glyphosate-based weed-killer to kill both the leaves and roots.
Install water butts to collect rain this autumn and winter. Rain water is great for watering ericaceous plants such as blueberries, Rhododendrons and Camellias.
Pest and disease watch
Good garden hygiene helps to prevent disease, so it is vital to throw out or destroy affected leaves. Do not compost them or leave them lying, as this could spread the disease.
Saprophytic fungi (i.e. living entirely on dead matter) pose no threat to living garden plants. Honey fungus may be more common in areas of woody planting, whereas harmless fungi often pop up in areas of damp lawn or on mulch.
Honey fungus fruiting bodies will begin to appear in late September and early October, indicating possible areas of infection. However, there are many harmless fungi that appear at this time, so don't be overly alarmed.
Powdery mildew can still be troublesome in warm, dry, Indian summer weather. Unless it is severe, it will probably clear up once the rains arrive.
